Lights Out On The City That Never Sleeps
As much of New York returns to normality this weekend, Kunal Dutta looks back at the day the clocks stopped, hearts skipped and then the parties began.Up on the 17th Floor in Midtown Manhattan, only a knife could cut through the atmosphere of the late afternoon boardroom meeting.
"We've been trying to get this moving for a while, and nothing's happening," Peter says, as he eyeballs his staff that squirm sheepishly around the table. "It's highly infuriating."
For just a split second, a flicker of light distracts his attention. Then the lights go out in an orderly and sensible fashion. All of a sudden, the server room alarm starts bleeping. Then the computers switch off. The air conditioning conks out, and silence prevails.
Within minutes, the clock near the New York public library has stopped on eleven minutes past four, and Fifth Avenue is transformed into a scene of movement and noise that resembles a rehearsal of an emergency on a movie set. Police sirens wail, fire engines with their horns blaring attempt to make their way downtown. The businessmen, young couples, tourists and children overspill the pavements, walking towards where they need to go.
This is a power outage. The possible darker significance of that is yet to be uncovered. If it plays on people minds, there is no time to unlock that fear. New Yorkers are resilient and run on clockwork, getting to where they have to, or "doing what they godda do" with an overriding sense of purpose and direction. The ice cream and hot dog stands sell out (keeping prices true) and within minutes all the torches and candles have been snapped up from the dollar store (at two dollars a pop).
Technologically advanced America is futile at times like this. Instead the traditional alternatives are the functional ones. As the mobile phone network goes into overload, the systems crash and queues start forming on the pavements payphones. Wireless communication systems, televisions, rolling news boards are eerily obsolete without power, and instead crowds swarm around the battery-powered transistor radios.
Immediately you can feel New York an immensely vulnerable city again. People try to sift out the facts from the rolling radio news coverage, traffic warnings, and continuous chopping and changing between studio commentary and on-scene reporters. Meanwhile the heat has risen to 89 degrees and a helicopter stays stationed above the Empire State Building.
As news passes that no planes are flying in or out of La Guardia, JFK or Newark airport, a man beats a drum singing 'Hare Krishna' and people line up at Immaculate Conception church on 14th street to pray, one cannot help noticing the darkest anxieties shielded behind New York's steely determination. Are we about to endure the very worst all over again?
At around 5:15pm, federal and New York State Officials said there were no signs of terrorism. The worst thoughts of tragedies are replaced with the immediate ones of inconvenience. But New Yorkers can live with that. Within hours, the transition of tension to relief culminates in the biggest all-night street party in downtown Manhattan.
In Johnny's bar, one of the most famous dives in Greenwich Village, the acrid smell of sweat filled the darkened room. Music is provided by MP3's on a customer's laptop, the glitter ball reflects candlelight and business is roaring. "I've got enough supplies to last a couple of days," says Veronica Roesberry, a wholefood retail seller. "Now I'm just pissed that I can't escape from New York cause the Holland Tunnel's closed and vacation starts tomorrow".
"Why go there now?" retorts Jack Eisenberg, clutching a round of beers for his friends. "The power has gone. There's no threat. This is an evening where New Yorkers should get together and have fun."
Already people have grasped this idea. In the early evening sunshine, many village neighbours come out onto their front porches with bottles of wine. This is, after all, mid summer. There is no threat. The weather has been sporadic recently. Days like this won't last forever.
Meanwhile whilst thousands try to evacuate the subways, others stream on foot over East River bridges. Overhead military jets meanwhile fly in precaution whilst Canada and the US argued over whodunit. As dusk is encroaching, Greenwich meanwhile was gearing itself up for one of the most spontaneous and highly spirited parties in history.
"Come on in, don't be bashful," drinkers called from inside Jane Tavern on 8th Avenue, "the bar is open and the beer is cold!"
Throughout the night, the crowds grew. People walked for miles, hitched rides or got as far as they can and gave up to enjoy the festivities instead. Some came out with their dogs, others played guitars, sang in harmonies or just lay on the road calmly smoking and drinking.
This was a kind of atmosphere that even the world's best party promoters could just have never planned for. The spontaneity, the relief, the laughter and the silhouettes only lit by occasional headlights on the empty roads unlocked the most intimate and positive tendencies in this newly formed community. People wanted to get to know each other, talk to each other, help each other and make each other happy.
"Dude, this is like 9/11" a young college boy told his friend "New Yorkers have got the stink out of their ass, and are being so nice." Meanwhile, Ruth Beattie, an intern from Ireland interrupted, "excuse me, did anyone ever tell you that you look like George Clooney?"
While his friend sniggered, the boy replied "Its blackout. Everyone looks amazing."
By 9:45pm Mayor Michael Bloomberg called it highly unlikely that power would return in a few hours. But it didn't matter anymore. Aided by a beautiful sky and full moon, one could not help feeling that magical things were happening. Smiles and laughter dominated the night as white and black, old and young, male and female all converged to make the most of the evening. For just one split second, it was as if human beings had learned to live together and that by morning all the world's problems would be solved. "This is the last time you'll ever see the stars in Manhattan," said Jo Elliott, a graphic designer from Jersey City. "I wish this night would never end."
With the calls of daylight soon approaching, there was still no sign of power. The impending thought of a three-day weekend was only to be another part of Bloomberg's greatest gift to the party people of downtown Manhattan.
"I'm going to make T-shirts tomorrow," said Suzanne Stanton, a graduate from Wisconsin University, "they're gonna say 'Where were you when the lights came on?'"
But tonight, no one here was in a hurry for lights.
Photo courtesy of Time Life Pictures